We loved our journey through Western Australia so much that we are already making plans to come back another time to see the amazing gorges, rivers and waterfalls at their full potential just after a wet season. But now it is time to cross the Northern Territory and head back east!
Our first stop in NT was a camping ground at Timber Creek on land owned by the local Aboriginal community. Unexpectedly camping was free of charge and included electricity, water and a swimming pool! Just below our site, on the river banks, lazed some Freshwater Crocodiles, just as the camping ground map pointed out! In the evening we sat outside and enjoyed the “balmy” evening ( Aussie for: warm but comfortable temperature) while chatting to our neighbours.
The next day we headed to Katherine, the 4th biggest town of the Northern Territory and definitely bigger than we remembered. Forty years ago, we swam in the Katherine river and the lower gorge. Today swimming and canoeing is only permitted in the higher parts of the gorge where, at the end of each wet season careful searches and trap setting for saltwater crocs are conducted. The first and second gorges are accessible by boat with a short walk over a rocky bank from one to the other. Some very old aboriginal paintings on the rock faces point out the type of food and medicinal plants which can be found in the area. At a bend in the second gorge where during the wet the flooding waters create a whirl pool, the water is said to be 30 metres deep. Here, the Jawoyn people believe, lies Bolung the rainbow serpent, creator and destroyer of life. The area is out of bounds for fishing as it could disturb Bolung who, if angered would send destructive lightning and monsoonal floods. Any surplus fish caught by the Jawoyn in the nearby waterholes is thrown back into the gorge to appease the rainbow serpent. Unlike at the Ord River, we saw very little wildlife along the gorge. Maybe the fauna also takes a respectful distance to the mighty serpent.
Multiple walks lead around the high cliffs of Katherine Gorge and offer great views, but very little shade. Therefore we started off very early to walk up to the top and saw the first tour boat just making its way down the gorge below. Among some interesting vegetation we passed many of the introduced Kapok trees which had lost most of their characteristic yellow flowers. Their hard seedpods were bursting exposing the soft cotton like fluff which once was used as pillow and upholstery filler. Today, due to its high flammability, it is mainly used for life jackets. It has also many medicinal properties, and is apparently one of the most endangered trees in the world.
Right next to our caravan park in Katherine is a thermal spring with water cascading into two warm pools and eventually into the Katherine river below. To "warm up" in the early morning hours or in the chilly (30 degree) evenings these thermal pools are frequented by tourists and locals alike,
For many the 28/29 degrees in the parks swimming pool is just a tad cold!
North of Katherine, but still part of the Nitmiluk National Park, is Edith Falls. Here in a setting of paperbark trees and pandanus palms are two beautiful ponds where swimming is slightly more refreshing. The water coming from the falls is crystal clear. A good opportunity to observe the parks diverse fish life!
Having had several dips and sufficiently cooled down we drove to the farm of country singer and double golden guitar winner Tom Curtain, to see his show “Outback Experience”. Leaving his parents peanut farm in Queensland he followed his passion of breaking in horses and his love of the Northern Territory. He wins the trust of wild horses in his own gentle way, a real horse whisperer! Eventually the horses are ready to accept a rider and learn to drive cattle. He also trains working dogs and looks after unwanted goats, buffalos and cows. His big horned buffalo even had a staring role in the latest Aussie movie “Outback Wedding”.
On our way south we re-visited the well known Mataranka Hot Springs and once again took a dip in the crystal clear waters. The spring looked a little different than 40 years ago when there were just slippery rocks and palm trees. Now steps and rails have been fitted to ensure safe access. Refreshed we set off to Three Ways, where the Stuart Highway running through the middle of Australia intersects with the Barkley Highway going east towards Queensland. We turned east, and were stunned by the desolate beauty of the burned outback bush. At Barkley Homestead, roughly 290kms from the Queensland border, “Happy Hour” had just started when we arrived, so we joined a crowd and headed for the bar. The hour didn’t stay quite as happy. From the bar we observed people rushing out to the highway where one of the large cattle trucks had rolled. It was unclear what happened. To our relief the truck driver was ok, but cattle in shock had got out and run into all directions. About 30 of them we saw being rounded up via helicopter the next morning. Two hours later we entered Queensland in direction of Mount Isa.
Replica of Jeannie Gunns homestead of Elsey Station near Mataranka, author of the book “We of the Never Never”.