Our water tank filled and tyre pressure lowered we took off via Lakefield National Park towards our first stop at Hann River Crossing. The first third of the road was bitumen and we were amazed how good the ensuing dirt road was until we met a corrugation grader, who obviously was sent to level the path for us!
The few river crossings on our way were a non event, as most of the riverbeds had all but dried out. At Isabella Falls we met a group of dirt bike riders, their shoulders, arms and derrieres already aching after their first day of travel. A support truck was following them with supplies and setting up camps for them on the way. 
Arriving at Hann River we found that our online booked campsite was 11 km from the road and from the only toilet in the area. The place was totally isolated and the riverbank was too close for comfort. So we backtracked along the narrow sand track to a better location with steeper river banks, inaccessible to the local crocs. As a matter of fact we were almost disappointed not to see a single one! We spent the first night in our swag, looking at the bright stars and were woken by a cacophony of bird sounds.
The next day the road became somewhat rougher, and when we hit the development road we were greatly obscured by red dust clouds from oncoming traffic and some mining trucks in front of us. Half blinded by the huge dust clouds we finally managed to overtake, thinking vindictively:”Eat my dust!”
We pitied the dirt bike riders who by this time were mostly riding in standing on their foot pegs and who were so indistinguishably covered in red dirt, that even their mothers wouldn’t have recognised them!
All along the road and within the sparsely wooded countryside we admired the art works of the wood chewing Australian termites. There were small, pointy termite hills and huge 2m spires. Some looked like fairy tale castles others like a group of elephants or people huddled together.
A sharp clang woke us out of our termite- hill- reverie! A fast passing 4-wheel drive had flicked a stone up cracking our windscreen. Not too bad though when you consider the tow trucks with broken down cars, snapped axles and punctured tyres we saw on our way.
We managed to get a windscreen repair kit at a place called Coen and continued on to Archer River Roadhouse for the night.
What a relief! Toilets, showers and semi-grassed areas for pitching our swag!
At night time we sat together with a nice group of people from all over Australia and a visitor from Austria exchanging stories and experiences.
Having been informed that Rio Tinto was building a new mine out off Weipa with an extra movement of 20 odd trucks per day, we decided to change our plans and skip the mining town on the gulf of Carpenteria
Instead we travelled further north. It was a real roller coaster ride with dips, potholes and steep ridges which could send a car flying if taken too fast. Austin proved himself as an excellent dirt road driver, and so we made it to Bramwell Station without incident.
From here the notorious Old Telegraph Road provides an extra challenge for the young and adventurous.
There is a tree at Bramwell Station decorated with number plates of all the unlucky cars which didn’t make it.
As we rolled up our swag in the morning, a strange creature crawled from underneath: a scorpion! Unaware that Australia has many kinds of scorpions, none of them being deadly, I panicked for a bit until Austin scared it away with his big camera lens.
We got pretty excited as we moved further towards the most northern point of Australia. Not wanting to end up on a tow truck with the rest of our trip ruined we only drove a few kms on the OTT (the Old Telegraph Track), but headed instead to Fruitbat Falls for a quick dip. The water was crystal clear and refreshing. Standing right under the fall we got a good back massage too! Plus we haven’t been this clean for days!
At lunchtime we arrived at the Jardine River and boarded the ferry to take us across.
Eventually, we arrived at Loyalty Beach, our camp for the next three days, only 30 kms of dirt track away from “The Tip”.
We put up our swag and just marvelled at the view! Needless to say, after such a long dusty road we had our “safe arrival” drink! Although we very nearly missed out, as purchase and consumption of alcohol is quite restricted on the Cape. At the drive through of nearby Bamaga Tavern, we were only allowed to buy a 4 pack of ciders or 2l of wine per car (they only had 2l casks of wine, honest!). So after Austin purchased his cider, I had to go back to the walk-in window and buy my wine.
Pitcher plants near fruit bat falls
Our camp site at sunset
Beautiful Fruit Bat Falls