Leaving Ayers Rock Resort we visited a few of Austin’s estranged relatives (See comments on Facebook!).
Living on a camel farm they don’t mind carrying tourists on their backs to the sand dunes of Uluru and Kata Tjuta sunset look outs. This is light work for the camels who have been left to run wild in the central desert after their hard work was no longer required. Led by Afghan cameleers, they once were essential to the transport of heavy loads through the dry interior including the railway sleepers for the old Ghan!
We drove on from there, past the “fake Uluru”, Mount Connor, and just stopped 30 minutes short of Kings Canyon for the night. We wanted to be close enough to get to the start of the canyon walks by 8am. We got there right on time and started our ascent to the Rim Walk at 8.15am. It was already 26 degrees celsius. The temperatures were said to reach 36 degrees or more, and the rangers would close the access to the walk at 9am.
Looking up the very steep stony path to the top of the canyon we fully understood why. With a bit of huffing and puffing and letting some of the young "show-offs” pass us on the way, we made it to the top, and from there things were a lot easier.
The climb was well worth it as the view was spectacular! We took our time rock hopping to the diverse look outs. From there we had breathtaking views of the sandstone formations and the chasm below. Half way along the 6.5 km walk, one can venture down into the chasm to the so-called “Garden of Eden”, an oasis with waterhole, wattles, ferns and ancient cycads inhabited by a variety of birds.
Among the international "Rim Walkers” was a nice camaraderie of hellos and taking each other's photos.
We really only felt the heat of the day when descending on the other side of the canyon. Luckily there was cool drinking water and our air conditioned car down below.
We drove south most of the day until 20kms before the South Australian border where the Kulgera Roadhouse claims to be the last (and first) pub of the Northern Territory. The weather had totally changed. It was 18 degrees now with a very strong South wind blowing and dark rain clouds looming on the horizon. We gladly took refuge in the quirky bar and enjoyed some good pub food, washed down with a glass of red called “grey nomads” (?).
And there was entertainment too! A room full of Aboriginal patrons sang along Slim Dusty and John Williamson songs blaring from the jukebox. The atmosphere between the white and aboriginal patrons was great with lots of humorous banter to and fro, contrary to what we had observed in the Alice and Tennant Creek. The roadhouse also has a gallery of aboriginal art work sold to quite reasonable prices. A sign informed that all the proceeds from sales go to the artists, contrary to most tourist shops.
The next morning we entered South Australia and changed our watches to daylight saving.