By now, we are almost acclimatised to the Friesland spring weather, the heavy rain, the warmth when the sun decides to show and the strong, cold, arctic winds. Sometimes, it’s all of these in a quick succession!

When we left Joure it was pouring heavily down - and sidewards! It stayed like this for most of our trip to Leeuwarden! But luckily the rain stopped and the sky brightened as soon as we entered the star-shaped canal surrounding the old city. We found an ideal mooring by the Prinsentuin (Princes Garden) right next to the centre and very close to the railway station for Uschi and Stephens departure the next day.

We liked Leeuwarden, the capital of Friesland and the largest of the eleven towns ice skating race, straight away. The quaint old lanes and waterside cafés were full of life. We joined the lunch crowd on one of the canal terraces, enjoying the emerging sunbeams and the relaxed atmosphere. After a nice lunch, we strolled around the centre and then hopped into a small canal boat taking tourists through the ancient Grachten and tunnels. The one hour tour for €5 was excellent value, although the audio app was somewhat hard to follow. We passed two of Leeuwardens tiniest shops, the Weigh-House, the birthplace of exotic dancer and WWI spy, Mata Hari and many other historic buildings.

Sadly, Uschi and Stephen left on the ICE to Amsterdam the following day!

Austin and I revisited the many places we had seen from the boat by foot. The old city is very easy to explore, and even I could find my way around without getting lost or making Austin turn in the opposite direction. Apart from the historic buildings, the city is full of great wall art and poetry!

The most noteable monument is the Oldehove, Leeuwarden's own “leaning tower”, built in 1529. Back then the town was still lying by the sea and the church and tower were built on a hill, greatly consisting of sand. The sand, being of diverse moisture content, destabilised the tower causing the tilt. The architect of the tower, not imagining that it would once become a tourist attraction, killed himself out of shame and embarassment!

Close by, the Princesshof Museum pays tribute to Princess Marie Louise of Hesse-Kassel, who, at a tender age, married Dutch Prince John William Friso of Oranje-Nassau. She is credited with keeping the Dutch Royal family, which still reigns today, alive. The prince died young, and Marie Louise, already a mother of two at the age of 23, assumed the duties of her late husband. For 20 years, she ruled until her son was old enough to take over. When her son died after a short illness, she retook the reins, for a second time, until her grandson came of age. The Princesshof Museum also has an exhibition of Dutch graphic artist MC Escher. His "Drawing Hands" are probably his most known work.

The graceful spire of the Bonifatius Church stands out in the cityscape. Here we met again the architect Pierre Cuypers, whose work we could already admired at De Haar Castle. In 1976 a storm blew off the 85.25m high tower, but fortunately it was rebuilt 5 years later. It’s heights is only surpassed by the modern Achmea tower, the highest building in Friesland at 114m. I have to say, next to the old city, is some beautiful innovative architecture, including the Drama and Concert Hall at Prinsentuin whose glass front is tilted so it reflects passing boats on the canal.

After a nice late evening chai latte under the heatlamps of a canal-boat bar, we were ready to cast off the next morning.

But, alas! There was a drama unfolding at the boat in front of us. One member of the german all-men crew had dropped his wallet containing €700.- and his identification papers into the murky canal. Austin dug out a grappling hook, a magnet and his goggles, but to no avail! The situation didn’t come as a great surprise to us. The Germans were obviously on a “see how many beers we can down tour” and needed lots of help to tie up the night before. After extensive discussions, one of them, probably still intoxicated, braved the cold water. We stood by as he tried to feel for the wallet with his feet and to give first aid if needed.

However, the wallet which also contained lots of coins, as is usual with the amount of euro cents one carries here, was definitely swallowed up by the muddy depth.

With the guy safely back on board, we left the group to their woes and hang-overs and took off for Dokkum.

I think, I mentioned that the eleven cities of the Elfstedentocht, the ice skating marathon which happens when the canals freeze over to a 15cm+ thickness, have each a fountain designed by international artists from eleven different countries. The girl and boy facing each other, closed eyes, under water vapor is the fountain in Leeuwarden and is probably my favourite.

In Dokkum, our next stop, the “Ice Fountain” plays with the elements. Created by Birthe Leemeijer from the Netherlands, the ice draws new patterns as water vapour and wind hit the surf. The leaves of the sculpture are arranged to supply maximum shade to aid the freezing process. The fountain is powered by solar energy. Just fascinating!

Dokkum is one of the romantic Dutch villages with a Venetian web of small canals and bridges. It also has two beautifully restored working windmills. There are plentiful moorings all around the old stronghold and a new looking building with amenities close by. A young group of locals walk by the boats every day to collect mooring fees, and twice a day, they collect the bags of garbage if left on the gunnels. A great service, keeping the moorings nice and tidy.

The temperature has really dropped again here in Friesland. I am using my puffer jacket nearly every day!

This morning, as I sat indoors contemplating turning the diesel heater on, I saw something orange in the water. It was three swimmers, two in wet suits - one without Australian crawling past the boat.

I don’t think they were Aussies!

No wonder the Dutch are so slim and healthy despite their croquettes, mayo and apple cakes with slagroom!